5 Minutes Read

Paco Rabanne, the rebel designer, dies at 88: A look at his journey

KV Prasad Jun 13, 2022, 06:35 AM IST (Published)

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Summary

Coco Chanel reportedly called Rabanne “the metallurgist of fashion”. Paco Rabanne was regarded as a man of multi-dimensional talents, some of which garnered him success while others made him infamous.

Spanish-born designer Paco Rabanne, who is known for his perfumes and metallic space-age fashion, has died at the age of 88. Rabanne died at his home in the Brittany region town of Portsall, France.

“The House of Paco Rabanne wishes to honour our visionary designer and founder who passed away today at the age of 88. Among the most seminal fashion figures of the 20th Century, his legacy will remain,” Puig, the fashion and beauty group that owns his fashion house, announced on Friday.

Rabanne was known as a rebel designer who collaborated with the family-owned Puig, a Spanish company. Puig also owns other design houses, including Nina Ricci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Caroline Herrera and Dries Van Noten and fragrance brands like Byredo and Penhaligon’s.

Who was Paco Rabanne?

Born as Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo in 1934, Paco Rabanne fled the Spanish Basque country at age 5 during the Spanish Civil War and took the name of Paco Rabanne while living in France. There, he studied architecture at Ecole des Beaux Arts and graduated in 1964.

In 1965, he launched his design career by exhibiting a line of 12 contemporary outfits, The Unwearables. In 1966, he used plastic, paper and metal for his innovative designs.

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Coco Chanel reportedly called Rabanne “the metallurgist of fashion”.

Many of Rabanne’s designs had a touch of an architect in them which made his designs stand out.

Rabanne achieved recognition and fame for designing costumes for films like Barbarella. His outfits have been worn by Mylène Farmer, Françoise Hardy, Brigette Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and many more.

In 1968, Rabanne collaborated with Puig to produce Paco Rabanne fragrances which are now known worldwide.

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Rabanne also gave other designers the opportunity to start their careers and David Peck, a designer from Houston, worked with Rabanne before the launch of his eponymous line.

Paco Rabanne was regarded as a man of multi-dimensional talents, some of which garnered him success while others made him infamous.

Elon Musk forms several ‘X Holdings’ companies to fund potential Twitter buyout

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Thursday’s filing dispelled some doubts, though Musk still has work to do. He and his advisers will spend the coming days vetting potential investors for the equity portion of his offer, according to people familiar with the matter

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index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -72.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +28.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +30.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -14.95
index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -7.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +8.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +3.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -1.95
index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -7.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +8.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +3.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -1.95

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On the runway, the sari is the shining star

In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a model displays a creation of one of the top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian attire, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital, with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture.(AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a model displays a creation of one of the top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian attire, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital, with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a model displays a creation of one of the top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian attire, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital, with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a model displays a creation of one of the top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian attire, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital, with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a model displays a creation of one of the top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian attire, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital, with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this combination photo of five photographs taken on Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, models display creations of top Indian designers celebrating the Sari, a traditional Indian outfit, during the Grand finale of the Lotus make up India Fashion Week in New Delhi, India. Organized by the Fashion Design Council of India, more than 100 of India’s top names in fashion and 50 models from India and overseas participated in the five day Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week which celebrated the sari, Indian women’s most idiosyncratic garment, six yards of fabric that symbolize a centuries-old tradition. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, a designer takes a selfie with a model before the start of a catwalk during the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, a model returns to the backstage after leaving the ramp during the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, models touch up their makeup before a show during the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, models rush for a quick change of outfit in between a ramp walk during the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, models line up backstage before the start of a catwalk during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Saturday, March 16, 2019, photo, models touches up her makeup before walking the ramp during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, a backstage manager checks the line up moments before a show during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Monday, March 11, 2019, photo, a model looks at the line up and outfits planned during a fitting session ahead of the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. Organized by the Fashion Design Council of India, more than 100 of India’s top names in fashion and 50 models from India and overseas participated in the five day Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, models, back stage managers and designers applaud at the end of a show during the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, models work on finishing touches before walking the ramp during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. Organized by the Fashion Design Council of India, more than 100 of India’s top names in fashion and 50 models from India and overseas participated in the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Wednesday, March 13, 2019, photo, workers put up posters of models outside a fashion designer’s stall in an exhibition during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a makeup artist applies eyeliner to a model before a show during Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Thursday, March 14, 2019, photo, a model leaves the backstage after showcasing creations of Indian designers for the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. It’s fashion season in India’s capital city with the country’s top designers showcasing their latest collections to lure the rapidly growing domestic and export markets for Indian haute couture. (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
In this Monday, March 11, 2019, photo, a tailor takes measurements of a model as a woman scans photographs during a fitting session ahead of the Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week, in New Delhi, India. Organized by the Fashion Design Council of India, more than 100 of India’s top names in fashion and 50 models from India and overseas participated in the five day Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week (AP Photo/Manish Swarup)
 5 Minutes Read

Haute-couture designer and fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld dies at 85

KV Prasad Jun 13, 2022, 06:35 AM IST (Published)

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Summary

German haute-couture designer Karl Lagerfeld, artistic director at Chanel and an icon of the fashion industry with his extravagant outfits and striking catwalks, has died aged 85. Instantly recognisable in his dark suits, pony-tailed white hair and sunglasses, Lagerfeld was best known for his association with Chanel but delivered collections for LVMH’s Fendi and his own eponymous label.

German haute-couture designer Karl Lagerfeld, artistic director at Chanel and an icon of the fashion industry with his extravagant outfits and striking catwalks, has died aged 85.

Instantly recognisable in his dark suits, pony-tailed white hair and sunglasses, Lagerfeld was best known for his association with Chanel but delivered collections for LVMH’s Fendi and his own eponymous label.

Rumours of Lagerfeld’s ill-health had swirled after he failed to show up at Chanel’s January show in Paris for his customary bow.

Chanel chief executive Alain Wertheimer recalled how he had given carte blanche to Lagerfeld in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand, from the Chanel jacket and suit to its tweeds and two-tone shoes.

“Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of Chanel’s success throughout the world,” Wertheimer said in a statement.

A true craftsman who combined artistic instinct, business acumen and commensurate ego, Lagerfeld was known for his strikingly visual fashion show displays.

LVMH chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault said the fashion world had lost a creative genius who helped make Paris the fashion capital of the world, and Fendi one of the most innovative Italian houses.

“I will always remember his immense imagination, his ability to conceive new trends for every season, his inexhaustible energy, the virtuosity of his drawings, his carefully guarded independence, his encyclopedic culture and his unique wit and eloquence,” Arnault said.

Born in Hamburg in 1933, Lagerfeld made his debut with designer Pierre Balmain as an apprentice before moving on to Patou and Chloe and then Italian brand Fendi.

“Kaiser Karl”

But it was after he joined French fashion house Chanel in 1983 that he gained rock-star status, credited with helping jazz up the label founded by Coco Chanel in 1910 and attracting younger clients.

On Jan. 22, Chanel hosted guests in a mocked-up Mediterranean garden for its haute-couture show. In a collection inspired by Lagerfeld’s favourite period, the eighteenth century, feathers adorned new twists on the brand’s classic tweed suits, which came with ankle length or fishtail skirts.

Tributes poured in from around the world for the man affectionately nicknamed “Kaiser Karl” and “Fashion Meister”.

Britain’s Victoria Beckham wrote on Instagram: “So incredibly sad to hear this. Karl was a genius and always so kind and generous to me both personally and professionally.”

Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace, sister of the late Gianni Versace and chief designer of the Versace group, wrote: “Karl your genius touched the lives of so many, especially Gianni and I. We will never forget your incredible talent and endless inspiration. We were always learning from you.”

Chanel said Virginie Viard, deputy artistic director of Chanel, would take over creative work for the brand’s collections.

French celebrity online magazine Purepeople said Lagerfeld died on Tuesday morning after being taken to hospital in Neuilly-sur-Seine just outside Paris the night before.

Elon Musk forms several ‘X Holdings’ companies to fund potential Twitter buyout

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Thursday’s filing dispelled some doubts, though Musk still has work to do. He and his advisers will spend the coming days vetting potential investors for the equity portion of his offer, according to people familiar with the matter

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KV Prasad Journo follow politics, process in Parliament and US Congress. Former Congressional APSA-Fulbright Fellow

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sensex ₹1,882.60 +28.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +30.85
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index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -7.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +8.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +3.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -1.95
index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -72.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +28.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +30.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -14.95
index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -7.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +8.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +3.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -1.95
index Price Change
nifty 50 ₹16,986.00 -7.15
sensex ₹1,882.60 +8.30
nifty IT ₹2,206.80 +3.85
nifty bank ₹1,318.95 -1.95

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Dollar-Rupee 73.3500 0.0000 0.00
Euro-Rupee 89.0980 0.0100 0.01
Pound-Rupee 103.6360 -0.0750 -0.07
Rupee-100 Yen 0.6734 -0.0003 -0.05
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Inside Access: The making of one of India’s biggest fashion houses

Launched in 1995, the House of AND, helmed by designer Anita Dongre, began as a line of chic contemporary western wear for Indian woman at a time when not many brands existed. Today the brand boasts of a multi-dimensional portfolio comprising Global Desi, an India-inspired brand of boho-chic ensembles; Anita Dongre Bridal Couture, and Grassroot by Anita Dongre, sustainable artisanal luxury prêt—a tribute to the handcrafted traditions of India, seeking to revive and sustain heirloom traditions and empower artisans in villages.

With a rapidly expanding network, the House of AND soon scaled over 280 exclusive brand stores and over 820 multi-brand large format stores in over 105 cities, and internationally entered Mauritius in 2013 and New York City, USA in 2017. In 2013, the brand became the first and the only fashion house in India to be invested in by General Atlantic, a leading global growth investment firm.

In an interview with CNBC-TV18’s Nithya Balakrishnan, Anita Dongre spoke about the brand’s vision of sustainability and its future plans. Edited excerpts:

Balakrishnan: What made you enter a market segment that has been so saturated?

Dongre: When I began 30 years ago, it was a whole new world for me. I loved creating beautiful designs; and the industry welcomed me with open arms. Today, there may be too many players in the industry because it has now come of age and every young girl today wants to become a designer. So yes, today it may have reached a saturation point, but back then we had an open canvas. I think the Indian woman has evolved and understands fashion and a designer’s unique sense of style, which allows us designers to have a place of our own.

Balakrishnan: Tell us more about your journey.

Dongre: I think I have the same hunger today that I had 30 years ago. I feel the same way today as I did when I was driven to fight with my parents to set up my two sewing machines in my balcony. It was the same hunger that urged me to design clothes for my college assignments. I felt the same passion when I made my first collection and showcased it a local stores for the first time.

Balakrishnan: What fuels your passion at The House of Anita Dongre?

Dongre: I think it is such an interesting profession because you get to come in every day and do something new. A new colour, pattern, design—there is always newness and excitement, which very few professions have.

Watch the complete episode here to find out more about The House of AND’s brand growth at CNBC-TV18’s Disruptors.